鞋厂用来评价皮革的可裁率Qualitywillvaryaccordingtothesize课件.ppt

1、MAKING LEATHER 制造皮革制造皮革v Leather making is an age old process used to preserve the skin of animals制革制革流程是流程是從保從保存存動物皮革開始動物皮革開始并且是并且是一個一個漫漫長過程長過程.v The leather making process is called“tanning”生生產皮革過程叫制革產皮革過程叫制革.v Now days the process is quite sophisticated and innovative,enabling us to make the many

2、 leather types available today.現在的技術是相當精密和創新的現在的技術是相當精密和創新的,使我們能夠生產多種種類的皮革以提供所需使我們能夠生產多種種類的皮革以提供所需.RAW MATERIAL皮源皮源v Hide from Cows生皮來自牛生皮來自牛v Mostly use Heavy Texas Steers&Heifer Hides(from USA)大多是用得克薩斯大多是用得克薩斯牛皮和小牛皮牛皮和小牛皮(來自美國來自美國)BEAMHOUSEv Processes hides with hair on them to chrome tanned leath

3、er加工生皮使除去其上面的毛髮然後加工生皮使除去其上面的毛髮然後鉻鞣皮革鉻鞣皮革.v Usually a 2 day process通常需要通常需要兩天時間兩天時間v This process is done off-site這個這個過程在來興昂前已完成過程在來興昂前已完成.1.Hide placed on a slow moving conveyor生皮放置在緩速運行的輸送帶生皮放置在緩速運行的輸送帶上面上面2.Graders check for hide defects分級人員檢查皮革缺陷分級人員檢查皮革缺陷3.Grade stamped on hide皮革將被打印等級皮革將被打印等級4.

4、Leather stacked by grade皮革堆放在分級台上面皮革堆放在分級台上面3.Wet Blue Grading藍濕皮分級4.Samming 擠水5.Splitting 片皮6.Shaving 削里7.Trim 修邊整理8.Retan/Dye 復鞣/染色1.Beamhouse/TanningDone Offsite 去毛2.Wet Back回濕9.Sam/Setting 擠水/設置10.Vacuum Dry 真空乾燥11a.Toggle Dry 繃板乾燥11c Air Hang Dry 挂涼乾燥12.Condition回湿13.Stake 振盪11b.Paste Dry 貼板乾燥1

5、4b.Buffing&Dedusting 磨革14a.Milling 摔軟15b.Roller Coating滾塗機15a Spray Machine噴塗機14c.Brushing/Napping刷拭/起絨16a.Embossing軋花機16c.Ironing 熨湯機16b.Polishing 拋光機17.Final Sort Inspection/Grading成品分級,檢查/分級19.Measure and pack 測量包裝20.Despatch to customer 給客戶發貨18.Lab Testing實驗室測試The SATRA grading system is an inte

6、rnationally accepted and proven leather grading system which can be used by tanners and footwear manufacturers to assess leather cutability.SATRA分級體系是一個國際性公認的和被証明了的皮革分級體系，可在皮廠，鞋廠用分級體系是一個國際性公認的和被証明了的皮革分級體系，可在皮廠，鞋廠用來評估皮革的可裁率來評估皮革的可裁率.Quality will vary according to the size,location and type of flaw.Le

7、ather assessment and the use of the SATRA five-point grading systems provides a qualitative method to assess these defects and then assign a standard grade to the skin 根據皮革的尺寸，位置以及折皺類型其質量有多種根據皮革的尺寸，位置以及折皺類型其質量有多種.皮革的評估以及應用皮革的評估以及應用SATRA五點分級體系提供了定性的方法來評估這些瑕疵並給這張皮以標准的等級五點分級體系提供了定性的方法來評估這些瑕疵並給這張皮以標准的等級

8、.The SATRA SUMM method uses a realistic pattern to assess cutability(an inside quarter of a standard dress shoe),but as such this will not be an indication of actual cutting yields.Historically,actual cutting values have shown higher yields than SATRA assessment figures,this being determined by actu

9、al pattern and cutter skill.SATRA SUMM方法是應用一個實際可行的模板方法是應用一個實際可行的模板來評估其可裁率來評估其可裁率(標准男鞋的內腰標准男鞋的內腰),但這並不是實際上的可裁面積但這並不是實際上的可裁面積.根據歷史事實，實際根據歷史事實，實際的可裁面積比的可裁面積比SATRA評估的數據要高，這是通過實際的型估以及裁刀人員技術決定的評估的數據要高，這是通過實際的型估以及裁刀人員技術決定的.SATRA SUM grading gives a measure of the percentage of cuttable area of a side of le

10、ather.SATRA SUM 分級給出了一張皮的可裁率分級給出了一張皮的可裁率.Each side of leather is carefully examined by the Grader.每一張皮都有經過分級每一張皮都有經過分級員的仔細品檢員的仔細品檢.A standard pattern is used to determine cutability(Size 9 English Derby Quarter).一個標准的模塊用來決定可裁率一個標准的模塊用來決定可裁率(9碼的內腰碼的內腰).The grader calculates the area(square feet)of un

11、usable leather i.e.area of leather with defects on it which cannot be cut in to the quarter.分級員計算不可用皮的面積分級員計算不可用皮的面積(平方英尺平方英尺).舉例，有瑕疵部份的地方但不能放進去一個內舉例，有瑕疵部份的地方但不能放進去一個內腰腰.A1=97%cuttable A1=可用率達可用率達97%A2=93%cuttable A2=可用率達可用率達93%B3=88%cuttable B3=可用率達可用率達88%B4=83%cuttable B4=可用率達可用率達83%C5=78%cuttable

12、 C5=可用率達可用率達78%D6=73%cuttable D6=可用率達可用率達73%The grade is stamped on flesh of leather.分級的等級有打印在皮的肉面上分級的等級有打印在皮的肉面上.Leather is separated(As grouped together,Bs grouped together,Cs together,Ds together),measured and packed separately不同等級的皮有分開放置（不同等級的皮有分開放置（A等級等級的皮放在一起，的皮放在一起，B等級的皮放在一起，等級的皮放在一起，C等級的放在一起

13、，等級的放在一起，D等級的皮放在一起等級的皮放在一起.分開量分開量皮以及分開包裝皮以及分開包裝.The average Load Grade Coefficient calculated(target is 83%cuttable)一鼓皮的平均品質系數的計算一鼓皮的平均品質系數的計算(品質系數目標是品質系數目標是83%)Documentation completed and sent to customer(if requested).完成相關文件並傳給客戶（如有要求）完成相關文件並傳給客戶（如有要求）.All Simona Tanning despatched leather is grad

14、ed by trained and certified(by SATRA)graders,using the SATRA SUM method.所有興昂制革出貨的皮都有經過受所有興昂制革出貨的皮都有經過受過過SATRA培訓並拿到培訓並拿到SATRA証書的分級人員品檢，應用証書的分級人員品檢，應用SATRA SUM方法方法.Certification is reviewed yearly by SATRA staff SATRA証書是一年一次通過証書是一年一次通過SATRA人員考核而得到人員考核而得到.v Environment Management refers to the manageme

15、nt of resources which impact on the environment.環環境管理是指涉及到對環境影響的資源的管理境管理是指涉及到對環境影響的資源的管理.Examples include:舉舉例包括例包括v management of resources(water,electricity,chemicals,personnel).v管管理資源理資源(水，電，化料，員工）水，電，化料，員工）.v Use of recycled products where possible(paper,plastic,wood etc).盡盡可能地使用可循環產品可能地使用可循環產品(紙

16、張，塑料，木頭等等）紙張，塑料，木頭等等）.v management of liquid waste(industrial waste from tannery,domestic waste from canteen),solid waste(leather trimmings,chemical residues,chemical barrels etc),air emissions.管管理液體廢棄物理液體廢棄物(包括皮廠流出的工業廢水，從食堂流出包括皮廠流出的工業廢水，從食堂流出的生活廢水的生活廢水),固體廢棄物固體廢棄物(修邊皮屑，化料殘留物，化料桶等等修邊皮屑，化料殘留物，化料桶等等),

17、廢氣廢氣.v management of the site housekeeping,emergency plans.工作現廠的管理工作現廠的管理 室內清潔，緊急情況計划室內清潔，緊急情況計划.v management of the leathers we produce no restricted substances.管管理我理我們所生產的皮革們所生產的皮革 無禁止物質無禁止物質.v We have a responsibility to ensure we do NO negative impact to the environment.我我們有責任來保証我們不做對環境有消極影響的事們有

18、責任來保証我們不做對環境有消極影響的事.v We have a responsibility to our customers to ensure the leathers we make are made in an environmentally responsible way,to accepted internationally accepted environmental standards.我們對客戶負責，確保我們對客戶負責，確保興昂制革是通過環保形興昂制革是通過環保形的負責任的方法來生產成品皮，並接受國際認証的環境標准的負責任的方法來生產成品皮，並接受國際認証的環境標准.v We

19、 have been independently assessed by the BLC as compliant and scored 75.9%in the LWG Environmental Audit.我我們已有獨們已有獨立立的通過了的通過了BLC的稽核以及的稽核以及LWG的環境稽核的環境稽核-分數是分數是75.9%.v The purpose of establishing an environmental policy is to ensure Simona Tanning is an environmentally responsible producer of finished

20、 leather goods.制定環境政策的目的就是為了確保興昂制革是一家在環保方面負責任的成品皮生產廠制定環境政策的目的就是為了確保興昂制革是一家在環保方面負責任的成品皮生產廠家。家。v Simona Tanning will ensure that its operational activities comply fully with relevant environmental legislation,and perceived best practice.興昂制革將確保其營興昂制革將確保其營運運活動都完全遵守相關的環境法律法規活動都完全遵守相關的環境法律法規，並盡可能達到最高標準，並

21、盡可能達到最高標準之要求。之要求。v Simona Tanning strives by the setting of objectives and the measurement and analysis of data,for continual improvement of its environmental management procedures.興昂制革通過設定一系列的目標，檢測以及數據分析以達到持續改善環境管理程序的興昂制革通過設定一系列的目標，檢測以及數據分析以達到持續改善環境管理程序的目的。目的。v Simona Tanning will focus on the mana

22、gement of resources and aims to reduce and/or recycle wherever possible.興昂制革將關注資源管理，並致力於減少資源的使用或盡可能地循環利用資源興昂制革將關注資源管理，並致力於減少資源的使用或盡可能地循環利用資源v Simona Tanning treats all liquid waste(processing liquor,domestic waste)on-site in a purpose designed effluent treatment plant.After treatment it is discharge

23、d to a river as per our consent licence from the Huizhou City Government.興昂皮廠在專門設計的污水處理廠處理所有的液體廢氣物興昂皮廠在專門設計的污水處理廠處理所有的液體廢氣物(生產污水，生產污水，生活污水生活污水).處理完后排放到河里面（有惠州政府簽發的同意執照處理完后排放到河里面（有惠州政府簽發的同意執照).v Simona Tannings future plan in 2008 is to recycle up to 60%of its treated effluent back in to the tannery

24、to use as process water(approximately 1440m3/day).v興昂皮廠興昂皮廠2008年的計划是循環利用年的計划是循環利用60%的處理後污水，作為皮廠的生產水的處理後污水，作為皮廠的生產水.(大約大約1440m3/day).v Simona Tanning separates all solid wastes on-site.Items like shaving dust,wet blue trimmings,leather trimmings,paper,plastic,chemical barrels etc are all recycled(sol

25、d and then recycled).Hazardous wastes like effluent sludge are removed by a government approved and licence contractor.興昂皮廠有把所興昂皮廠有把所有的固體廢棄物在現廠進行分類有的固體廢棄物在現廠進行分類.比如說削勻灰塵，藍濕皮修邊料，成品皮修邊料，紙比如說削勻灰塵，藍濕皮修邊料，成品皮修邊料，紙張，塑料，化料桶等等都有循環利用張，塑料，化料桶等等都有循環利用(賣出去然后再利用賣出去然后再利用).危險品廢棄物像污泥我們有危險品廢棄物像污泥我們有交給政府授權頒發了執照的合同商處理

26、交給政府授權頒發了執照的合同商處理.v Simona Tannings Environmental Management systems focus is to be a practical and effective system to manage the Companys impact on the environment 興昂皮廠的環保管理體系的重點是成為一個可實踐的以及有效的體系來興昂皮廠的環保管理體系的重點是成為一個可實踐的以及有效的體系來管理公司在環境上的影響管理公司在環境上的影響.Wet End Department 水水廠廠v Recycling wash-off liquo

27、r&samming machine liquor back to Wet Back drum reduction in water use from 13L/hide to 1.1L/hide.循環利用擠水機上的水回用到回濕鼓里-從之前的13L/hide用水量降到現在的1.1L/hide.v Reduction in shavings generated by more accurate shaving reduction from 0.51Kg/side to 0.27Kg/side.通過更精確的削勻，其削勻皮屑有減少 從原來的0.51kg/side降低到現在的0.27kg/side.Use

28、 of Olcina drums for low float retan processing.使用OLCINA轉鼓進行少水量的復鞣制程.Chemicals no chemicals used which may contain banned substances.化料 所使用的化料沒有含禁止的物質.Water&chemical meters to reduce chemical wastage only dose what is needed.水量計和化料計來減少化料的浪費 只有劑量系統需要.TanningsDrying Department 干燥車間干燥車間v Low Temperatur

29、e Vacuum Drying reduced energy use 設置低的真空干燥溫度 減少電的使用.v Natural Hang Drying reduced energy use 自然挂晾干燥 減少能源的使用v Closed circuit steam to reduce energy wastage 關閉環形密閉式循環系統以減少能源的浪費.TanningsFinishing Department涂涂飾飾部部門門v Use of water based chemicals where possible.盡可能地使用水制的化料.v Chemicals no chemicals used

30、which may contain banned substances.v化料 所使用的化料沒有含禁止的物質.v Monitoring of solvent usage to focus on reduction.管控溶劑的使用減少其使用量.v Water scrubbers on spray line exhaust to purify exhaust.在嘖龍機台的氣體排出處安放水洗滌器以淨化氣體.v Buffing dust extractor&compactor on buffing machines to reduce dust emissions.在磨革機上安裝集塵塔和擠渣機以降低灰

31、塵的散發.v All effluent generated onsite(industrial&domestic)is treated in the effluent treatment plant and then discharged.所有現場生產的污水（工業污水和生活污水）都有經過污水處理廠處理然后排放.v Due to increasing production levels a new treatment plant is being constructed and will be commissioned in March 2008.This new plant will trea

32、t all our effluent and the technologies employed will allow us to recycle 60%of the treated effluent back to the tannery to use as process water.由於產量的增加，我們有新建一個污水處理廠將在08年3月份開始運作.新的污水處理廠可處理我們所有的污水，並且我們所采取的工藝將允許我們把處理后的污水的60%進行回用，我們將把這部分水作為制程用水.Balancing調節池Primary Settling初沉Oil/Grease removal去除油/脂Flocc

33、ulation&settling凝聚並沉定Biological Treatment Anaerobic生化處理（兼性池)Biological Treatment Aerobic 生化處理(好氧池)MBR(Membrane Bio-Reactor)MBR處理Ultra Filtration超濾RO(Reverse Osmosis)(反滲透系統)Store&reuse in tannery process water儲存並重新利用到皮廠 生產用水Old ETP for further treatment,then discharge原污水處理廠進行進一步的處理 然后排放60%40%40%disch

34、arged 排放40%60%reuse to tannery循環利用於皮廠有60%Energy Use Processing 電量的使用-制程 57.1MJ/m2Water Use Processing水的使用 制程85dm3/m2Solvent Use 溶劑的使用7.7g/sfSolid Waste 固體廢棄物1.0Kg/m2Discharge Volume 排出量800m3/dayBOD20mg/lCOD90mg/lpH6-9Suspended Solids 懸浮物60mg/lColour 色度40 timesNoise 噪音Day time 65db 白天時間65dbNight time 55db 晚上時間55dbAir Quality total Suspended Particles(dust)空氣質量 懸浮顆粒總計(灰塵)100mg/m3Air Quality SO2 空氣質量 二氧化硫800mg/m3NOx 氮氧化物400mg/m3